Choosing The Right Leather; A Guide For Shoemakers

Top-grain leather is also derived from the top layer of the hide but undergoes some processing, such as buffing, to remove imperfections. It is of good quality but lacks the natural markings found in full-grain leather.

Characteristics:

It has a more uniform appearance compared to full-grain leather. It is durable, flexible and has good breathability.

Use:

It is commonly used in various shoe styles, including casual shoes, loafers and boots.

Description:

Corrected-grain leather is produces from the lower layers of the hide, where the grain is not as high quality. It undergoes heavy processing to remove imperfections. It is then embossed with an artificial grain pattern. Often used in lower-end shoes.

Characteristics:

It has a smooth and uniform surface but lacks the natural grain pattern. It is durable but doesn’t age gracefully.

Use:

It is often used in less expensive shoes, as well as in shoe styles that require a smooth and consistent appearance such as athletic shoes.

Description:

Suede leather is made from the underside of the hide, where the softer and more fibrous part is located. It is created by buffing or splitting the leather. While they look elegant, they are more prone to stains and require special care

Characteristics:

Suede has a velvety texture, it is lightweight and has good flexibility. It is not as durable as full-grain leather and requires careful maintenance.

Use:

It is commonly used for casual shoes, loafers and boots, It is also popular for creating a luxurious accent or detailing on dress shoes.

Description:

Nubuck leather is similar to suede, but it is made from the top-grain of the hide, which is sanded to create a soft and velvety surface.

Characteristics:

Nubuck has a finer grain than suede and is more durable. However, it is still susceptible to staining and requires regular upkeep.

Use:

It is commonly used for high-quality casual shoes, work boots and outdoor footwear.

Leather Thickness:

The thickness of leather is measured in ounces (oz) or milimeters (mm). For shoemaking, a thickness between 1.2mm and 2.2mm (3-5 oz) is commonly used. Thicker leather offers more durability and support, while thinner leather provides flexibility.

Leather Characteristics:

• Flexibility: For comfortable shoes, choose leather with good flexibility that allows natural movement without creasing excessively.
• Breathability: Look for leather that is porous and allows air circulation, preventing excessive moisture build-up and keeping feet comfortable.
• Strength and Durability: Consider the intended use of the shoes and select leather that can withstand the expected wear and tear.

Speciality Leathers:

• Exotic Leathers, such as alligator, ostrich or snake can add a unique touch to custom shoes. However, they require specilaized skills for handling and may cost at a higher cost.